Don't pay the tradie until the job is done.

Some training concepts for you.

We have all had to employ a Tradie at some stage, maybe a plumber etc.

From experience I have found that the payment should only happen once the job is actually finished and you are happy with the result. Otherwise you may well have to chase them down and on some you will never get a decent work ethic to return and finish/fix/clean up etc. With holding the payment until you are happy with the job done is the least aggravating way forward. Dogs are no different!

If we begin a dogs training journey using the usual combo of Luring, guiding etc then there is a window of time where we let the food or leash pressure speak for us.

As we get the desired behaviour then we release the food to the dog or release leash pressure.

Once we achieve the behaviour we were after and do a few reps to cement the concept then we can take the leap of faith that on our next rep we add the cue/sound/word that we want to use for that position moving forward.

Eg: Lure upwards until the dogs body tilts into a sit position, release the food to the dog...cement the concept by a few more reps and have the dog moving into or offering the behaviour in a motivated or confident fashion.

Give the dog a short break to allow the info to settle.

On the first rep of the next session then Lure as usual and if the dog is still actively offering the sit then on that next rep you drop the word in as the dog tilts into position. So, Lure, tilt, "SIT" as the dogs hindquarters fold into position.

BUT...what happens now?

If we continue to just feed the dog the lure at this point then the dog will automatically break position as before.

Technically then it is the food allowing the dog to break, not you. The knock on affect of this is that the dog learns that a better offer gives the dog permission to break position. Not ideal at all! An entitled type of dog will then disengage and you will need to pull out yet another payment to get the desired behaviour...you have just been played into using a BRIBE not a Lure!

As an alternative we can introduce a 'termination cue' to the dog so that the dog is given clear boundaries as to when to start the behaviour and when to end it.

So, Lure, tilt, "SIT" as the dogs hindquarters fold into position....with hold the expected reward then lure the dog out of position on the 'finish' (or a word of your choosing) . Dog is then paid!

On your next rep you could introduce a 'continuation marker' of 'good' or similar.

So, Lure, tilt, "SIT" as the dogs hindquarters fold into position....with hold the expected reward..."good!" then lure the dog out of position on the 'finish' (or a word of your choosing) . Dog is then paid!

The time frame between the with holding of the reward and the delivery on the termination cue is 'bridged' for the dog so that it relaxes and does not bother offering other behaviours to hurry the process.

A dog that is used to instant gratification on it's performance will often go into 'trick monkey' mode and bang out multiple alternate behaviours in the hope of quick payment. Spin, high five, bark, clawing at you, mouthing etc is a sign that the dogs mind is not settled and that it does not understand that it requires calm to win.

The bridging cue of 'good' said in a soothing way helps settle the dog into patience but if the dog breaks position then the addition of a negative marker such as "nope!' when it offers random stuff is also a pathway to a clearer head. Now we have the full picture for the dog and learning is Excelerated.

A combination of short loose leash, a high value lure, calm body movements from the trainer, possibly some spatial pressure too and clear communication then gives the dog only a single pathway of response.

We can then work on shaping the dogs response further into even calmer head space, longer duration of time that the dog holds position, higher distraction levels we are working under, releasing spatial pressure with distance....proofing the behaviour one criteria at a time.

This recipe/method/pattern can then be applied to what ever cue you want to teach, just make sure that one sound ONLY means one action.

IN SUMMARY:

So please make sure to use your markers appropriately,

The termination cue to end the behaviour,

The bridging or continuation marker to keep the dog in behaviour

The negative marker to tell the dog that breaking position or offering another random behaviour will not lead to success

If you want to then another layer can be used of the conditioned reinforcer of YES/CLICKER, I tend to only use that in the early stages of shaping and do not use it once the position/cue is set.

Every trainer has their version, as long as you are consistent and the dog is not confused then go for it!